Kilgarvan, Co. Kerry

Kilgarvan, is called Cill Gharbhain in Gaelic, meaning 'Church of St. Garvan'. It is a small village situated in South West Kerry just 7 miles from Kenmare, and 20 miles from both Bantry and Killarney. It is a village where time appears to have stood still. Nestling among the mountains of Mangerton to the North, Bird Mountain to the South and Bar na Stooka, (Top of the Stack) to the East, with the wonderful Roughty Valley stretching westward toward Kenmare Bay. Travel at your ease through the countryside of the surrounding areas. The Roughty Valley is awash with the soothing sound of rivers. Here the happy angler can be guaranteed hours of restful pleasure. The Irish love of life and laughter (ceol agus craic) is legendary and the people of Kilgarvan are no exception. Drop into any of the pubs in the village and beyond, you will be entertained by local musicians and invited to take your ease. A visit to Kilgarvan will ensure you taste the best of Irish tradition in a natural setting with a variety of activities to cater for everyone.

Amid this wild and beautiful landscape one can find, the stone circle at Gurteen, the great wedgetomb at Knockanuaha, standing stones or gallans and boulder burial sites and wonderful views wherever your eyes should peer.

Ardtully Castle
On the site of the present Ardtully Castle, now in ruins, for 300 years stood for a castle of the Mac Finneen McCarthy. It was here that Cardinal Rinnucini, the Papal Legate to the Confederation of Kilkenny, stayed for one week with his roman bodyguard while en route to Kilkenny after having landed at Killmackillogue, Co. Kerry. 300 men from Kilgarvan died defending the ford at Slane at the Battle of the Boyne. They were commanded by Donal Mac Finneen McCarthy of Ardtully and it is recorded that 300 riderless horses returned to Kilgarvan with the survivors. Donal himself was killed at the Battle of Aughrim exactly 12 months later and the McCarthy lands were forfeited to the invaders.
The present castle was constructed in 1858 by Sir Richard Orpen, a Dublin based solicitor whose family had connections with these parts. The architect was called Dean and he was responsible for the design of University College Cork and Dromore Castle near Kenmare, Co. Kerry. The majority of the stone of the old Ardtully Castle was used to build a large Victorian walled garden at Ardtully, which still stand today. Ardtully was used by the extended Orpen family as a holiday home. The famous painter Sir William Orpen was a grandson of Sir Richard. He was the official war artist who recorded the Treaty of Versailles on canvas. Sir Richards's brother, Edward was a famous doctor who founded the institute for the deaf and mute at Glasnevin, Dublin. The Civil War saw the burning of Ardtully Castle in 1922. It was first looted and then set on fire and suffered the same fate as many great houses at the time.

The Battle of Callan
Kilgarvan was the scene of a very important battle on the 24th August 1261 at Callan some 2 miles south of the present village. A great Norman Army together with an army formed from the Sept of the McCarthy family led by Donal Roe McCarthy approached Kilgarvan from the East. They entered Callan Valley through the pass of Cummar Gleann. On descending from the pass they were set upon by a large contingent of foot and mounted soldiers of various McCarthy Clans including Finghin Raghna-Roin, Cormac of Mangerton and Donal Maol. The Norman contingent consisted of many knights in full armour, who were defenceless in the rugged Callan Valley terrain. A great slaughter took place, and included among the dead was Sir William Denn, Lord Justice of Ireland at the time. Many big houses and castles were left without leaders after this battle. The annals of Inisfallen record this battle and its aftermath. Local folklore maintains that at the end of the battle local Chieftain Donal McCarthy was slain and is buried under the great flagstone at Callan. The Beara Breifne Greenway passes by the monument and Grave of the slain Mac Caura.

Other Places of Interest are:

Clontoo Copper Mines - A chimney stack landmark from the Roughty Valleys copper and lead mining past.
Motor Museum - A wide range of vintage and classic cars are housed in this working museum.

Photos copyright Bruce Archer

Clan Name

Kilgarvan is part of the ancestral home of the McCarthys and forms a stage of the Beara-Breifne Greenway which is based on the historic march of O'Sullivan Beara in 1603.



Copyright © Beara Breifne Greenway Project. All rights reserved.
Text/Photographs by kind permission of: Bord Failte, Regional Tourism Boards, Coillte, The Heritage Council, National Waymarked Ways & local Community Groups.

Project Co-ordinator: Jim O'Sullivan
Marketing Officers: Claire O'Sullivan, Gene Lewis, Filipe Vilarinho
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